Johnstown and Ohiopyle are both known best for water -- Johnstown for the flood that crushed the town but not its spirit 120 years ago, and Ohiopyle for the Youghiogheny River rapids where boaters from around the world paddle and play.

But the two communities share another drier and higher link. The Great Laurel Ridge -- at its heart up-folded rock from the Pennsylvanian geologic period -- looms 3,000 feet above sea level between the two towns. Laurel Ridge spans 70 miles between its northern reach at Johnstown and its southern anchor at Ohiopyle. Motorists cross it every day on the Pennsylvania Turnpike and state routes 30 and 31, with little thought to the ridge's prominence. Hiker's, though, know Laurel Ridge can be alluring, pristine in places and a challenging setting to stretch legs and lungs, and to sense Western Pennsylvania's wilder side.

Outdoor opportunities are abundant at state parks and forests all along Laurel Ridge, but the hiker's ultimate lure is the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail, snaking along the ridge crest's entire length.

The trail weaves among old-growth stands of oak, poplar, cherry and hemlock and twists through narrow aisles between house-size boulders. Deer bound away through the thickets and ravens croak from the ledges above. Most heavily used in summer and on October weekends, the LHHT also offers stretches that can accommodate cross-country skiing.

Hiking the entire LHHT in one outing -- called a "through hike" -- is the most ambitious approach, but the trail offers a wide range of less demanding options. Clusters of five lean-to camping shelters stand at roughly 7-10 mile intervals all along the trail, and the various road crossings allow for day hikes of varying lengths. Long miles of the trail are nearly level, while the southern end where the path climbs from Ohiopyle is rugged and steep. Yellow blazes on rocks and trees clearly mark the route.

"It's a long uninterrupted wilderness-type experience that's not available just anywhere," said Roger Baker of Huntsville, Ala., who spent a week on the trail during early October's wintry blast. "I came here first with my friend Andy [also along for this trip] years ago, but I come back because I like it here. There are all kinds of options because of the shelters and the access points. I'm planning to bring my wife back here, not to do the whole thing but to do little jaunts and to camp in the shelters."

A long-distance hike on the LHHT requires detailed planning. Camping is permitted only in the designated shelter areas, where space is also provided for about 30 tents, though such intense use is rare. The spacing of camping areas means that, unless a hiker can cover 20 miles per day with a pack, hiking the entire trail takes a week to accomplish.

Drinking water is another consideration. All of the shelter areas offer hand-pump wells, but several of these sources have been ruled unsafe by the Department of Environmental Protection. Distance hikers need to be prepared to carry safe water. Many pack water filters and chemical treatment, enabling them to drink from abundant streams along the way. The Bureau of State Parks is expected to begin placing water buffaloes next spring at shelter areas with condemned wells.

Firewood is provided by Laurel Ridge State Park personnel in a generous heap at each camping area.

Even a glance at the LHHT map reveals that the trail threads the history of land conservation in Pennsylvania. Along its length the trail crosses parcels of Forbes State Forest, tracts of State Game Lands, privately conserved properties and Laurel Ridge State Park -- 14,000 long narrow acres that escort the trail along the most scenic possible path.

"This trail really gives people a lot of ways to get out and have a semi-wilderness experience here in the Laurel Highlands," said Mike Mumau, park operations manager in the Laurel Hill State Park complex, which includes Laurel Ridge, Laurel Hill and Kooser state parks. "There is tremendous natural and recreational diversity that satisfies a lot of people from the hard-core backpacker to the day-hiker, the hunter and nature observer. To me, it is amazing to have this mosaic of 100,000 acres of public land that runs all along this ridge. I'm not convinced that the public is aware how much in the outdoors is available here for enjoyment."

Access to the trail's northern terminus is via Rt. 56 just west of Johnstown. Southern access is from Rt. 381 at Ohiopyle. Signs indicate parking areas.

For more information on the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail and other recreational offerings in Pennsylvania state parks, go to www.dcnr.state.pa.us.

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