Ever since Leigh and Lillian Shields opened their nursery in 1982 near Waynesburg, they've had to adapt their all-organic business to changing times. Currently, however, they're facing the greatest challenge of their operation -- climbing gas prices.

"We started by selling only herbs the first year and made less than $1,200," Mr. Shields said. "When people kept asking for common plants like tomatoes and peppers, rather than herbs, I began to have second thoughts about continuing the business."

The couple added the requested vegetable plants the following year, and their business and clientele has grown every year since. Currently, they sell a mix of herbs, dried flower arrangements, flowers, water plants and shrubs on three acres of their 50-acre farm near the village of Spraggs, 10 miles or so south of Waynesburg in Greene County.

"We grow our own plants in the greenhouses from seeds, cuttings and transplants," Mr. Shields said. "We don't spray anything with insecticides and keep the insects under control mainly by our dozen or so peacocks, who roam free on the grounds."

To keep their customers coming back, they decided to stock unusual or exotic herbs and plants such as stevia, a plant with edible leaves that are sweeter than sugar; oleander; costmary; Mexican marigold, a plant said to be "the smelliest in the greenhouses"; 35 varieties of scented geraniums; eucalyptus; bay; decorative oregano; flowering tobacco; camphor artemisia; and pots of lemon grass.

"Fifteen years ago, we couldn't sell a single pot of lemon grass," Mr. Shields said. "Now, with the growing interest in ethnic foods, we sell close to 500."

One of the most striking plants, a potted variegated ginger, can serve as a colorful house plant, has edible roots, needs little to no sun and can be planted outdoors and divided when taken indoors in winter. To fill another niche, the couple have added a line of 60 to 70 different water plants.

The nursery sells wholesale and retail only on site and eschews catalog and Internet sales. Although customers come from as far away as Cleveland and Pittsburgh, it's sustained by buyers from Morgantown, a 20-minute drive away.

A decade ago, the nursery's biggest source of income came from the nationwide shipment of dried flower arrangements created by Mrs. Shields. When shipping costs rose dramatically, that aspect of the business dwindled, and the couple started selling at Heritage Shows, which feature American-made goods.

"We'd pack up an entire U-Haul and sell out the entire truckload in under five hours," Mr. Shields said. "However, we're now facing our greatest challenge of our career -- fast-rising gas prices."

The nursery's biggest sales volume takes place in spring, when the couple sells the inventory of plants out of the greenhouses. They fear the cost of driving may dampen next year's profits.

"If people can't drive, it's going to be rough," Mr. Shields said. "That's why we've started another new venture."

When Mr. Shields first told his wife he wanted to open a winery, she thought he was overextending himself and that the nursery took up enough of their time already. But Mr. Shields wanted to use his knowledge of making melomel, a honey and fruit-based wine, which he learned from an expert in the field.

"Each year, I used to help Ferenc Androczi, owner of the Little Hungary Farm Winery in Buckhannon, West Virginia, make his melomel and watched his techniques and methodology very carefully," Mr. Shields said.

In January, Shields Demesne Winery opened with a wine-tasting room adjacent to the nursery sales room. The inventory includes nine flavors of melomel with names such as Primavera, Bloodroot and Honeysuckle Rose made from different types of grapes purchased in Erie.

The honey comes from the nearby Thistledew Farm in Proctor, W.Va., and an Amish co-op in Lancaster County.

Tastings of the wine are held during nursery business hours between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. seven days a week.

"So far, wine has been a fun business, but I'm really a plant guy at heart," Mr. Shields said. "Growing things will always be my first love."

The Shields nursery and winery is at 374 Smith Creek Road (Route 218) just south of Spraggs, Greene County. The phone number is 724-435-7246.